Chile (Part 2)

Day 51: Chilean Patagonia, where hyperbole is everyone's first language. Finally a morning that feels like a vacation. Still lake, birds chirping (vice packs of stray dogs barking), camp fire coffee, and the prospect of driving deeper into Patagonia a mere 20km and two border stations away. Border crossings will test your patience seemingly every time. It never fails to amaze me when customs tell me, as I'm standing in their country, I don't have the appropriate paperwork to be in their country. Passport stamps be damned. This time my truck was missing her Visa and I was told it would be impounded if the police found out. 20 minutes of what probably sounded like a petulant Argentinean four year dressed as a disheveled gringo, and we departed with no issues. Within ten minutes of crossing the border into the Seven Lakes region of Chile, it became obvious that this was the land of hyperbole and superlatives. The greenest pastures, bluest skies and lakes, the whitest clouds and snow capped mountains. I wish I had a fisheye lens but I think it may explode at the attempt to take in this much beautiful landscape. Camp fire lunch and a quick swim in a very cold lake and I am officially back in vacation mode. Pulled into Puerto Varas for dinner and last minute gear purchases forJeremy Antonyshyn, and decided to sleep in this beautiful harbour town instead. They are opening a Patagonia store, have a five star hotel and casino, and Laphroaig Quarter Cask. Just when I think I may have entered the first world, the wild dog index places it firmly elsewhere. During dinner found out about a massive earthquake in northern Chile around Iquique. Hope the people and city fare ok.

Day 52: Car camping is getting a little tiresome on the back and hammies, but it's a decent night sleep and you can't beat the price. The skies remind me of Montana. I don't know if it's the lack of pollution or man-made objects, but you just seem to be able to see further. Exponentially further. Arrived in Puerto Montt around 13:00...and everything is closed. At least they only have a two hour siesta here. Really hoping for an evening ferry to Chaíten. Found out the earthquake in northern chile was in Tacna and Iquique. If we couldn't have crossed the border until we had the registration in hand, we certainly would have crossed the border in Tacna the morning of the first and may have been arriving in Iquique that afternoon, to depart on coastal roads that evening. Thankful for the prayers. No luck on our first fishing attempt or the direct ferry to Chaíten. Looks like we have to drive more of Chile's pacific Patagonia coast...damn. After 30 more km of gravel we arrived in Hornopíren, and now I feel like we're in the Pacific Northwest...and it's also breathtaking. Just the number of different landscapes we've seen in such a short period of time is hard to comprehend. The fact they are all maybe the most beautiful and prime examples I've seen, is hard to believe.

Day 53: May have serious issues with the truck, had to tow and pop the clutch this morning...on the ramp to the ferry...for the first start of the day. Wouldn't have been possible without Vladimir and Dmitri the Russians who were incredibly knowledgeable since most cars in Russia start this way. Their words not mine. Even the ferry rides are other worldly. I don't even know why I'm taking pictures. It's impossible to capture this grandeur with 1,000 pictures let alone words. We've truly been blessed with weather. Officially putting everything on the roof. Fuel economy be damned. I'm already leaking oil all over this pristine landscape, no sense in going green now. Fixed the door handles and we have music. All is not lost. Yet another incredible 45 minutes of scenery and we are on our way to Chaíten. Picked up two hitchhikers to include Virginie Dorsimond the Belgian tour book. She is returning to work at a hostel for a month and it is obvious why. Within an hour we realize that Jeremy Antonyshyn worked with the owner Javier's son on the Ottawa River, and that Javier must be the craziest guy this side of Argentina. Javier offered us his grill and after two markets, we came home to prepare a feast. It was great to be back in a real kitchen with music and friends, to include a Belgian, two French, an Italian, an Aussie, the standby Canuck, and some hammered Chileans. I wish the Russians would have stayed just to keep things interesting.

Day 54: Gravel road and more gravel road. Jeremy Antonyshyn is truly a shitty navigator. Wrong turn out of Chaíten and no distance/fuel calculations means Futaleufu is going to be another trip. Another push to get on the road and another casualty. My pillow, so dear to my head and my heart, is with us no longer. I'll have to email Virginie Dorsimond to see if I can get her to hold on to it in case I get to Brussels this summer. Drove for 12 hours and made 350km. Over 150km of the worst gravel we've seen yet. Car camping tonight, Lago Tranquilo mañana. Yet another "best sunset" of the trip, and you probably couldn't capture with anything other than a paintbrush. Got legitimately excited about $7 per gallon gas today.

Day 55: Most interesting push-start yet. 200m downhill with a blind turn at the bottom, and I'm parked at the bottom idling on four (of six) cylinders. Flashers on, MAC trucks using a lot of air brakes and horns, good times. This will be the last trip to the mechanic as we are getting better at finding camping spots next to hills. Picked up Javier and Maria from Spain just south of Coyhaique. Finally some real spanish lessons instead of two gringos and a frenchy learning by consensus. Amazing night camping next to Lago Tranquilo. Glaciers, stars, bonfire, wine, beers, chocolate, and a huge tree. Thoroughly enjoyed the company and had fun with the camera. Although I did take a mean digger trying to jump the fence to get back during the 10 second time delay.

Day 56: Woke at a decent hour and headed to a tour of the marble caves. While a $7 boat ride was a nice change of pace, I think the marble caves would be better when you can swim in the lake. Starting to get a hang of the photography though, which is nice. Ended up giving Javier and Maria a ride for another 50k and they were kind enough to donate to the fuel fund. I think I may have a pretty solid tour of Europe shaping up this summer. First uneventful border crossing in Chile Chico, aided in large part by an admirer of the Land Cruiser who happened to be doing the customs inspection. Told we could expect asphalt the whole way. Not the case. This combined with an 80km detour and we have to sleep in a gas station parking lot 120km short of El Chaltén.